This is a description of a spindle pin puller that is used to pull the lower A-arm pin on Datsun S30 Z cars. The following is the parts list and vender to acquire the parts used to make the pin puller.
1 in. x 10 in. Black Steel Nipple Pipe
Model # 585-100HN
Store SKU # 998885
J-B Weld Co. 2 oz. J-B SteelStik Epoxy Putty Stick
1 – INA Bearing D9
This is the bearing used in the upper front strut allowing the strut assembly to turn allowing steering.
1 – B7AT-NC100-1200 1-8 X 12” ALL THREAD STUD A193 GRADE B7 PLAIN
2 – G8NP-NC100 1-8 FINISHED HEX NUTS GR-8 PLAIN FINISH
2 – 1” USS GRADE 8 FLAT WASHER (Plain)
4 – 1 1/8” USS GRADE 8 FLAT WASHER (Plain)
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1 – M12-1.25 acorn nut to attach the wheel to a First Generation Z wheel stud.
There are a couple of items that will need to be done by a machine shop. Those items are as follows:
Tap both ends of the all thread rod to 1 ¼” deep using a M12-1.25 tap.
Weld two 1 1/8” washers to the end of the pipe. (You may want to do both ends)
When you get the tube back you will take the epoxy and make cone shaped pillar from the bottom of the washer outer edge and taper to the pipe at a 60 degree angle. Let the epoxy set up over night. The next day the puller will be ready to use. This is the configuration of the puller when it is being used:
A-arm (with nut removed from the spindle pin) <–> all thread stud screwed on to one end of the spindle pin <–> pipe slid over the all thread stud <–> 1” washer <–> 1” i.d. D9 bearing <–> 1” washer <–> 1 ½” nut
Remove the securing key bolt in the middle of the pin prior to attempting to remove the spindle pin from the Lower A-arm. Once the Key is removed, apply penetrating lube to opening where the securing key bolt was removed. You may want to remove the securing key bolt a week or so in advance and add penetrating oil every day to help with the extraction process. You may want to place something in the bottom of the hole so the penetrating oil can saturate the surface of the pin.
Using a 1 ½” combination wrench or gear wrench slowly turn the nut about a turn to place tension on the spindle pin. Do not turn too fast or use an impact wrench on the nut during the extraction process because the spindle pin will yield and break. If the pin moves freely, continue tightening the nut on the all thread stud to extract the spindle pin. If the spindle pin fails to move (check movement of the free end of the spindle pin) after a full turn of the extraction nut, thread an acorn nut on the exposed thread of the spindle pin and tap firmly with a 3 to 5 lb. sledge hammer. At this time the spindle pin is in tension and the sudden impact will use the tension force to assist in breaking the corrosive bond and allow the extractor to pull the pin out of the A-arm. The use of the Acorn Nut will prevent the spindle pin threads from being damaged by the impact from the sledge hammer. Remove the Acorn Nut from the spindle pin once the pin starts to move. Continue turning the nut and extracting the spindle pin until the spindle pin is free. In many cases, past attempts may have been made to remove the spindle pins. The key preventing the spindle pin from rotating may have been tightened too much and deformed the pin. Once the spindle pin is deformed, the pin will be difficult to remove due to the deformed part of the spindle pin dragging against the interior of the A-arm while it is being extracted. Check the area around the keyway in the spindle pin and remove any deformed metal with a metal file, if needed, prior to installation.
To remove the spindle pin from the threaded rod you will need to tighten the second nut against the nut used to pull the spindle pin. Then you can thread two M12-1.25 nuts on the other end of the spindle pin and tighten them against each other. Use a wench on the two nuts on the pin to remove the spindle pin from the threaded rod. If the pin does not come out, you may use a pair of vice gripes on a strip of rubber wrapped around the notch in the pin. Abrasions or deformation left on the pin must be smoothed out with a file prior to re-installation.
There is a second tool that is needed and that is the A-arm spreader. The spreader opens the two ends of the A-arm to allow the bushings to be installed and it will fit on the strut assembly. The new bushings require that the A-arm be spread open ¼” with the spreader bar to achieve enough clearance. The bar is put through one side of A-arm after the old bushings have been removed. Then a washer is put on the bar followed by three nuts being threaded on to the rod. Another washer is then put on the threaded rod. Now thread the rod beyond the outer edge of the other bushing opening. Tighten two of the nuts together against the inside edge of the bushing opening. Move the other nut against the other bushing opening. Measure the distance between the two washers and turn the single nut until the distance has increased by ¼”. Remove the threaded rod, nuts, and washers. Test fit the A-arm with bushings installed to the strut assembly. If the A-arm does not fit on the strut you may need to open up the arm again to 3/8”.